Three of us spent the last few days of October visiting Kruger National Park, South Africa’s premier wildlife reserve. To get there from KwaZulu-Natal, we drove up the east coast and through Swaziland.
Swaziland is an independent kingdom, so we had to carry passports and go through border formalities twice, but it’s the quickest and quietest route, taking one through forests and green sugar cane fields.
It was a shock entering Kruger — so brown and dry. In South Africa, the end of October is late spring or early summer, usually marked by touches of greenery from sprouting leaves and eager grass shoots.
But Kruger wasn’t only brown, much of the landscape in the south was blackened by veld fires.
We spent most our time at Letaba Camp, about half way up the long finger, stretching 350km (217 miles) from north to south, that is Kruger. Here there hadn’t been fires, but the landscape was stark. The scrub mopani that dominates this area was skeletal, the stunted trees having shed their leaves that turn spectacular shades of gold and russet in winter.
“Looks like Delville Wood” …. “Like a moonscape” were comments from my travel companions as we drove through areas deserted by wildlife, the animals literally having moved to greener pastures.
But Kruger seldom disappoints, particularly if you’re prepared to work at finding the animals. We still managed to see more than 30 lions, plus many elephant, buffalo, rhino, giraffe and a clan of spotted hyena.
While the lingering memory is predominantly of the stark, brown, landscape, I realised when browsing through my pictures how distorted this was — there was plenty of color, often subtle and muted, but lovely nonetheless.
Below are photos that, I hope, portray this better than words. I’ve avoided cropping the pictures, which one tends to do when displaying wildlife on a web page. In this case I wanted to show the whole picture … and found it wonderfully liberating not worrying about cropping.

Caption: Young male lion (Panthera leo), with winter leaves stuck to his coat, makes his way over a grassy bank near Engelhard Dam, Kruger National Park.
Camera: Canon EOS 450D (Canon Rebel XSi 12.2MP); Lens: Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 USM; Focal Length: 400mm; Shutter speed: 1/1000; Aperture: f/5.6; ISO 800

Caption: Spotted hyena (Crocuta crocuta) walking through wooded debris left by elephants uprooting trees, Kruger National Park.
Camera: Canon EOS 450D (Canon Rebel XSi 12.2MP); Lens: Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 USM; Focal Length: 400mm; Shutter speed: 1/640; Aperture: f/5.6; ISO 800

Caption: Close-up of impala ewe (Aepyceros melampus) with head in profile, Kruger National Park.
Camera: Canon EOS 450D (Canon Rebel XSi 12.2MP); Lens: Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 USM; Focal Length: 400mm; Shutter speed: 1/640; Aperture: f/5.6; ISO 400

Caption: Old buffalo bull (Syncerus caffer) standing next to a fever tree near the banks of the Letaba River, Kruger National Park.
Camera: Canon EOS 1D Mk II; Lens: Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM; Focal Length: 180mm; Shutter speed: 1/200; Aperture: f/5; ISO: 400.

Caption: Lone elephant bull (Loxodonta africana) standing in a reedbed lining the banks of the Letaba River, late afternoon, Kruger National Park.
Camera: Canon EOS 450D (Canon Rebel XSi 12.2MP); Lens: Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 USM; Focal Length: 400mm; Shutter speed: 1/200; Aperture: f/5.6; ISO 400
(Please Note: If you’re not reading this post on Wildlife Photography Blog from Wildlife Pictures Online, then you’re not seeing the original version. Please go to Colors of the Kruger Park to read the original.)